Yesterday I bought a surfboard from a general store down the road and immediately proceeded to the beach to give it a go, unsuccessfully. Being from New Mexico and lacking beach knowledge, I spent the majority of the time in the water fighting the current and paddling around.
That night I chatted with a surfer (from Tasmania) who is living in the boarding house, after a few tips and pointers I felt more confident and took to the beach first thing this morning. After a series of nose dives and comical wipe-outs, I finally caught my first wave! Walking home bruised, sore, slightly burnt, and exhausted, I felt victorious.
After catching a wave, or more likely being dominated by a wave, it's tough to get back out to sea, seriously, its really hard! Every wave encountered pushed me back towards shore or turned me over with it, spending the majority of the time tumbling around the ocean floor.
Keep at it. You ride this surfboard down to the beach on your bike?
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